Beads of Rice Watch Bracelets seem to be one of those things you either get or you don’t. I suppose that’s because they’re mostly associated with vintage watches, which people either tend to get or don’t (click through for an Op-ed on the subject), but it’s fair to say I’m firmly in the “get it” camp when it comes to Beads of Rice (BoR) bracelets.
Very light, comfortable, conforming to the wrist, and with some tactile feedback I find pleasing, BoR bracelets seem to be a nice compliment to a watch. Typically, thinner and lighter wearing than something like an oyster bracelet and just more charming than a jubilee on some watches. So, when I finally had a watch that seemed perfectly suited for the emerging offerings of aftermarket, straight end, BoR bracelets, I went on the hunt.
There aren’t a ton out of options out there, particularly in the US, which I favored simply to avoid any shipping, customs, etc., charges. While down an Instagram watch rabbit hole, I discovered The Curated Wrist. It’s immediately apparent (plus it says so on their About page) there is an enthusiast behind the brand, and their foundation of “good value” is exactly what I’m looking for most of the time. Of the US-based offerings I found, The Curated Wrist’s two options were also the least expensive at $60 for their “classic” model and $75 for the “upgraded” with free shipping and 30-day returns.
Unboxing
I was pleasantly surprised, especially at this price point to find such nice packaging. The stamped and printed magnetically closed boxes are way nicer than anything I’ve received at 3x the cost, and will definitely be keepers for selling watches in the future.
The Classic Beads of Rice Bracelet
This bracelet has the airy, rattly feel that’s right at home on a vintage watch. First impression, especially if you’re not used to this type of bracelet is that it may feel a bit cheap, particularly in the clasp which is the simple fold over and feels a bit on the thin side. However, I don’t really think that’s fair since the finishing overall is quite good and pretty much exactly what you’d want, especially at this price point. A more refined clasp might be nice, but I think in keeping with the look and feel of the intended product, it exceeds my expectations and I would have a hard time justifying a need to look elsewhere or spend more.
The “classic” style is shorter overall than the “updgraded” and only adjustable via the ubiquitous micro adjust springbar / pin system in the clasp. I received both an 18mm polished that measured 15.65 cm at its longest and 14 cm at the smallest setting, and a 20mm brushed that ranged from 15.8 cm to 14.15 cm. Adjustment was obviously quick and easy with this system and I immediately put them on some watches. The inside of the straight end links are notched for easy access to the spring bars, and the underside of the bracelet is essentially just the rollers, with the beads or grains of rice connecting the links only on the top side. This keeps the bracelet lighter and very conforming to the wrist.
Overall, these two bracelets were exactly what I was seeking… if they fit. Unfortunately, even on some of my shortest lug to lug watches (that would require longer straps), they were still too loose / long unless I was seeking that really loose jangly hanger that your one Uncle or family friend always had, they simply didn’t fit.
Around this time, I had a few different conversations with other collectors that claimed their wrists were about the same size as my 6.25” wrist and the bracelets worked for them. This then had me annoying Gourdin at The Curated Wrist with questions and clarifications if the “Upgraded” one could actually be made smaller than the “classic” version after the removable links were removed and the clasp was brought in. He didn’t think so, (spoiler alert, he was correct), but he offered to send me one anyways. He also informed me the classic style could be shortened by a jeweler.
The Upgraded Beads of Rice Bracelet
The “Upgraded” version is really just that, solid complete links with flat undersides provide more heft and less rattling. The bracelet overall has a more refined and finished feel because of this and the thicker metal used on the clasp. This solid link style also allows for removable links, using a Seiko SKX type friction pin that’s plenty easy to size as well. This means the bracelet is substantially longer at full length, 19.6 cm. With as many links removed as possible and the clasp micro adjust brought all the way in, the shortest length is slightly longer than the classic version at 14.4 cm.
The other main difference in the Upgraded version are the spring-loaded end links that accommodate lug widths between 16 and 21 mm. I initially opted away from this versatility for two reasons: 1, concerns the compressed end link would cause wear to the watch lugs, and 2, the width of the bracelet is actually 2 mm smaller than the classic at 16 mm wide, creating more of a step-down effect. I think that aesthetic can actually work for some watches, particularly older and more dressy options, and I found I liked that effect more in person than I anticipated based on photos.
Is the $15 premium “worth it” for the Upgraded version? Arguably so, in my opinion; you get a bracelet that can fit a variety of common lug widths, a more refined feel that can be adjusted and customized by adding/removing links to your desired side of the watch (to center the clasp on your wrist), and although it looks a touch more modern, I still think it achieves that vintage aesthetic when you want, making it arguably more versatile to pair.
That fact that neither of these options fit makes it that much harder to like each of them so much and not be able to wear them.
Alternatives
One of the reasons I like the options from The Curated Wrist so much, is that at least so far, without handling any of these others in the metal, I’m not convinced they’re not all made by the same one or two manufacturers, but I’ll attempt to differentiate them as I’m able to discern. And of the following alternatives, only one lists any shorter than 14 cm at its smallest.
Lob Time Gay Freres Style 7 Row Beads of Rice Bracelet
With a listed length range of 13.5 cm to 15 cm, adjusted at the clasp, the Lobtime offering is nice because you can choose between polished, matte, or semi-polished (alternating polished and matte) and 7 or 9 row widths. The 7 Row option is $110 and the 9 Row is $130, with free shipping on orders over $200. Extra points go to Lobtime for the vintage Topic style straps and other miscellaneous vintage parts and accompaniments.
The only other US-Based option I’ve found so far, Those Watch Guys are offering a polished BoR bracelet in 18- or 20-mm lug width that’s listed with a size range between 140 mm and 160 mm for $85. This appears to me to be very similar or the same as the option from The Curated Wrist.
One of the more expensive options found, at 150EUR I can’t completely tell if this is similar to the offerings from The Curated Wrist and Those Watch Guys or if it’s different. At first glance, the links appear to possible be a touch longer or rectangular, but I’m not sure if it’s just the photography. The underside would be more telling, as it appears very similar otherwise, with the same 14 – 15.5 cm clasp adjusted size range as well.
Last on the list are the options from famed vintage dealer Private Eyes. Private Eyes even offers a few different varieties, including gold plated options, 7 or 9 row BoR, and other vintage styled bracelet. The 7-Row “GF Type-1” is the closest to the others and listed with an adjustable length between 15.5 – 17 cm for 18,000 JPY or about $170 USD.
Special Mention – Forstner Bands
I’ve heard rumor that Forstner might have something in the works after recent success with their “JB Champion” style Komfit Mesh recreation, so it might be good to stay tuned to their space as well.
Final Thoughts
Length adjustment aside, I will say that I would have a very hard time justifying any of the others over the two offered from The Curated Wrist. Most of the basic, classic style might be same anyways, and the “Upgraded” version might be the only one like it, so I can’t make sense of why I would want to spend more, especially if you’re located in the US. The two versions offered by The Curated Wrist cover a broad gamut of sizes and the general style and preferences at a very fair price.
That said, I’m not sure where that leaves me, personally. I’m not quite sure how much it would cost a jeweler to remove some of the links from the classic style; I’m assuming it’s fairly inexpensive, and that would get me setup. But, if I have trouble finding a capable jeweler, I might go the Lobtime route, assuming the 0.5 cm difference would get it short enough.
Either way, this quest has reinforced how great these universal straight end link options are, and I’m glad to see more of these types of products coming to market. They provide a nice, vintage look and feel and really transform a watch that’s maybe spent its whole life on straps otherwise. More durable than a nice leather strap for about the same amount of money, I just don’t think you can really go wrong. And if you’re on the fence, give it a try, you just might ‘get it’.
Special thanks get out to The Curated Wrist for putting up with my many questions annoyances on trying to make this work, and going above and beyond sending me out options just because. (I had not mentioned that I planned to post a review or anything of the like; I had purchased the classic style and had followed up with them on sizing and verification of the “upgraded” length and they just sent one out because they knew I was trying to make it work.) In that last package from The Curated Wrist, I also received some completely unexpected, just because, straps that look absolutely gorgeous, that I’ll be review soon. Thanks for reading and happy hunting.
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